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Proper Maintenance of a Bead Filter
koi stuff
Proper Maintenance of a Bead Filter

During the first two to three weeks, do not backwash your filter. Feed normally. Monitor your water quality parameters because without "cycled" beads, you will have Ammonia and Nitrite spikes. These are explained in this page.

The filter will immediately function to circulate water, it will mechanically remove wastes and it will start to "cycle" as organic material accumulates in the bead cake. It will not polish the water to "gin-clarity" until the beads have formed a bio-film on them. When the beads are brown and slimy, you have finally got "cycled-beads".

How to backwash from someone who backwashes regularly.

Maintenance backwashing should be every two weeks unless you see decreased flow rates using a flow meter. Sometimes (usually) it's a good idea to have a gang valve in the 2" supply line which connects the pump to the multiport. This is *really* step-by-step and plain.

  • Turn off the filter pump.
  • Close the gang valve between pump and multiport.
  • Open the air-blower valve, unless it is swing-checked.
  • Turn the multiport valve to RINSE
  • Plug in (or turn on) the air blower.
  • If you hear "thrashing beads" then step back and watch the filth come out the waste line.
  • If you do *not* hear thrashing beads within 20-30 seconds, then with the blower running, turn the multiport to BACKWASH (when you do this, inside the filter you will hear a 'THUNK' as the beads fall down out of the shoulders of the filter.)
  • Turn the multiport back to RINSE and NOW you will hear thrashing beads.
  • Let them thrash for about 30-60 seconds. Water may stop coming out of the waste line. It's okay.
  • Stop the air blower.
  • Close the air-blower valve unless it is swing-checked.
  • Turn the multiport valve to BACKWASH
  • Resume pump action to restore water flow. Black or brown water should come from the waste line. Watch closely because pressure may build in the filter and you will see this as a decline in water flow and a rise in pressure on the gauge (if present) in the top of the filter.
  • If pressure builds - switch multiport to RINSE immediately. Water will stop flowing from the waste line until the filter is refilled. When water resumes from the waste line, you know the filter is full and you should return the filter to BACKWASH. Again, pressure may build in the filter and you will see this as a decline in water flow and a rise in pressure on the gauge (if present) in the top of the filter. If this happens again, even after the filter tank is refilled, you'll have to return to "step one" of the whole process. I have had to repeat this two or three times to clear out enough debris to "finish" the whole process. That's rare and only happens when I fail to backwash for three or more weeks.
  • If pressure does not build, run water on BACKWASH 'til it appears to be clearing somewhat and then turn the multiport to RINSE. Water will stop flowing from the waste line until the filter tank is refilled. When water resumes from the waste line, you know the filter is "full" and you should return the filter to BACKWASH.
  • Run water on Backwash until it is cloudy brown but you can see through it slightly. DO NOT RUN IT TILL IT'S CLEAR! You will over clean your beads!
  • When water runs "clearish" from the waste line, turn to RINSE, run till clearish again, then turn the multiport valve to FILTER.
  • Tom recommends turning off the pump when you turn the multiport valve to spare the spider gasket in the head. That's probably a good idea. (Ben)

 

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